Sparky

the transistorized ignition-system for your 2CV

  

Sorry for the terrible layout. This is only a coverted word doc!
Installations:
Installation has to be made while ignition is turned off!!

Secure the ignition-box with the two screws and washers to the firewall on the right side next to the battery.

 
The red and black cables are to be connected directly to the battery. The red one connects with the positive terminal and the black one connects with the negative terminal.

 

To open the clips you need a 10mm metric wrench. Then route the other two pairs of cables carefully along the main wiring harness to the front of your car to the ignition coil and fix them with cable ties. Be careful that the cables do not rub against any hard and abrade or that they are mounted too close to the exhaust manifold.

 

Disconnect the two primary wires from the ignition coil (not the ignition cable) and connect them with the plugs of the ignition-system which you can see illustrated in the left picture. The cable which runs out of the main harness (often with a purple plug) has to be connected with the red plug of the ignition-system. The blue ended wire, which runs out of the breaker housing, has to be connected with the blue plug of the transistorized-ignition-system.

Do not panic: If you mis-connect the cables the ignition-system will not be damaged it only will not work!

 

The remaining two plugs (see picture) of the ignition-system have to be connected to the ignition-coil. You do not have to take care whether it is to the plus or the minus pole .

If you have a revolution counter connected with the ignition coil then you have to connect its signal cable with the blue plug of the ignition-system. The red one is connected to 12V+ when the ignition is switched on.

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Set ignition timing:

To install a new breaker point is unnecessary until your existing set is worn out. An old condensor may, however, cause difficulties even if it worked perfectly before the installation of the new electronic ignition-system. In this case it is your have the choice: a) buy a new one or b) leave it out, although with the condensor in place you have the capability if the electronic ignition-system should fail ( and this I assure you will never happen!) to switch back to the old ignition system.

The ignition timing should to be set at 8° before TDC as usual. To do this the LED at the upper side of the case will be of some help. If breaker points open, the LED lights up . However, best results for accurate timing setting are achieved with a strobe light projected and marking on flywheel. The optimum breaker gap is about 0.5 mm (0.02 inch), because then the energy loss of the ignition coil and the ignition-box can be reduced. If you breaker are presently adjusted to the standard difference of 0.4 mm (0.015 inch) you will not need to change the breaker gap. This is so because the quality of the spark is relatively insensitive should the gap be either 0.4 or 0.5 mm.

After the new contact set has run in after 5000 to 7000 Km, you can try to advance the timing 2°, 4° or 6°.

BUT BE CAREFULL : TO MUCH ADVANCE WILL CAUSE PISTON SEIZING

AND DESTROY YOUR ENGINE.....................

Spark plugs: Because of the higher spark energy you can use different spark plugs. We recommend the BP 6 HS from NGK or the W5 B or W5 BC from Bosch. Similar types from other manufactures perform OK. The old notation of thermal value range is 225 to 240. The 240 value is the colder type! The electrode gap can be set to 0,9mm (0.035 inch). Check the gap every 10.000 Km (6800 Miles) so it never exceeds 1,1 mm (0.044 inch). Spark plug lifetime is approx. 25000 Km (17 Miles).

Attention:

If you wash the engine compartment never project the water

jet directly onto the ignition-box.

Technical datas:

Breaker current :

0.4 Ampere at 14 Volt

Working voltage

8-18 Volt

Max. frequence:

> 150 Hz (9000 RPM)

Ignition coil current disconnection:

after 0.8 s – 1 s

Max. coil current:

6 Amp. / max. dwell angle 90°

 

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